What Is Single Stage Paint? Answers From The Body Shop Pro!

Single Stage Auto Paint - What You Should Know Before Using It

I get a significant number of do-it-yourself people asking me, “what is single stage paint, and should I use this for my car to save money painting it myself?” That’s a loaded question that will take a lot of discussion to answer.

We’ll start with the basics of exactly what IS single stage automotive paint, and then we’ll get into the ramifications of a single stage paint DIY project. Let’s dig in!

First off, single stage automotive paint is a type of paint coating that is exactly as it sounds… it’s a 1-step shiny paint that you can put on your car project. You can shoot the paint on in a single stage, as opposed to 2-stage paint, which requires you spraying a layer of base coat, and then a layer of clear coat.

When you spray on 2-stage base coat paint, it’s dull. It has a matte finish effect, because you’ve got to spray on the clear coat to bring out the shine and show off the pearls. Single stage paint is shiny right out of the gun. How do they do this? Easy. They mix in the clear coat right with the base color ingredients.

There are advantages and disadvantages to using single stage paint, and I know this from experience as a “DIY-painter-turned-into-body-shop-owner” professional. I won’t get all overly fancy on you like the other body shop professionals, because I can relate as an original DIY’er myself, and I can explain it in plain English terms.

Without making this post longer than it has to be, we are assuming that the vehicle is properly prepped and/or shot with primer before the single stage paint is applied. All of this information will be valid for the DIY’er, but also valuable for those who opt for having a body shop apply the paint.

Let’s cover all good & bad, and get you up to speed!

Advantages of Single Stage Paint

1) Cost - the biggest reason people consider using single stage paint. When you’re cutting out half of the necessary paint to finish the job, half the cost stays in your pocket.

Base coats and clear coats can get super expensive, ranging anywhere from a few hundred bucks to $1,000 for all of the components. However, most single stage paints can be purchased between $75 and $200 per gallon. 1 to 2 gallons is usually what is needed for a medium-sized vehicle.

2) Time of Application - it takes less than half the time to shoot single stage paint. Once you’ve got a car masked off and ready to shoot, you’ll only need to apply a couple of layers and you’re done.

2-stage paint requires laying down a couple of base coats allowing roughly 15 minutes to “flash” (that’s where the thinner, or “reducer” evaporates from the paint) in between coats, and then 2 to 3 layers of clear coat with an equal flash time in between. That’s more than double the time required for putting down a single stage paint job, thanks to the wait time for allowing each layer to “flash”.

3) Great for Small Projects - it’s the clear choice when you don’t want to “overdo” a project.

If you’re trying to paint one small panel on your beater car to make it look a little better and prevent it from rusting, single stage paint is a great choice. It’s also the better choice for painting panel covers on riding lawn mowers & other miscellaneous metal parts that you just don’t want to go overboard on.

It makes sense to consider the end-use of a project, and its overall value before investing money into the paint job. If your 1995 Ford Taurus that has one foot already in the graveyard needs a panel painted, you can have your local auto parts store mix a quart of single stage paint made to match the color of the car fairly accurately, and at a low price.

Disadvantages of Single State Paint

This is where it gets a little ugly. The reasons for not using single stage paint are more than likely going to steal the show for you. This will be eye-opening for you if you’re learning about this for the first time. Let’s get into the details!

1) The Durability Sucks - single stage paint does not have a good life span compared to 2-stage paint.

I don’t ever consider single stage paint as an option for a “nice” vehicle at my body shop. Durability is the #1 reason. You’re just not going to get the protection from the elements with single stage paint like you would with a 2-stage base coat/clear coat system.

Once you start to develop cracks, fissures, and oxidation in the paint, it’s a done deal. You have one layer to protect your car from what is underneath. Sure, you’ve probably got a layer of primer under the new paint, but once your paint layers fail, the primer won’t be enough to protect it from the damage it will get from the rain, sun, sleet, snow, and road salt.

The primary purpose of painting a car is to protect it from said damage due to the elements. Therefore, “more” is better. Sorry single stage, you lose big time on this point.

2) It Doesn’t Look Good - single stage paint cannot compete with 2-stage paint when it comes to creating that showroom shine.

As I mentioned before, the way they get single stage paint to lay down with a shiny gloss is by mixing in the clear coat into the base color components. What you’re getting is a “stained glass window” type of effect. Yes, the paint will be shiny… but you will have a noticeably duller finish than what you’d get with 2-stage paint.

Think of 2-stage paint like a big sheet of glass on a fine hardwood table that has been finish sanded and stained, compared to a hardwood table that doesn’t have a glass top, but has been shined and buffed with furniture polish. There’s just no comparison.

It is possible to wet sand, buff, and polish single stage paint to make it shine better. Some people get fantastic results. But sanding and polishing single stage paint reduces the thickness of the material’s coating on the vehicle. The thinner the coating, the less protection you have. Plus, it just would not make sense to spend the time and money doing finish work on cheap paint.

3) Exact Color Match is Difficult - you might not be able to match the exact hue on a newer vehicle.

If you’re a picky person and you’ve got a newer car that needs a panel repainted, you can forget single stage paint. Doing this yourself is not to be advised. It’s hard enough to match 2-stage paint to perfectly match existing paint on a car. It’s much worse with single stage.

The single stage paint will have less of the color pigments of its 2-stage counterpart. Plus, single state paint will not reflect the light in the same way, due to the clear coat being distributed throughout. That might not sound significant, but it will make a repaired panel stick out like a sore thumb.

Single stage paint is really only an option for a complete paint job if you don’t want to notice any glaring differences. But I would not advise doing a complete paint job in single stage paint for any of my customers. In fact, I wouldn’t even do it if someone requested it. They’d have to go down the road to Uncle Jed’s Paint Shed before I risked my reputation on such a project.

4) It’s VERY Difficult to Shoot - DIY people, pay close attention to this point!

Single stage paint is definitely NOT for the beginner. In fact, it’s hard for seasoned paint & body techs to shoot single stage paint without having problems. That’s why I highly recommend against its use for the do-it-yourself crowd.

When shooting 2-stage paint, putting on the base coat is the easiest paint you’ll ever spray. It’s as close to “fool-proof” as it can be. If you don’t lay it on too heavy, you’re not likely to get any runs or sags. All you have to do is shoot it per the manufacturer’s specifications and you won’t have any problems… most of the time.

Clear coat is a horse of a different color. It’s the hardest of paints to shoot. You can spray it on “dry”, which leaves a dull, grainy finish that doesn’t shine. You can lay it on too thick in spots, and get runs. And you can also put on too much overall, and get sags.

There are SO many minute details that have to be considered to get clear coat to lay on right. You’ve got to have the right temperature, moisture control, a good atomization out of the gun, proper pressure at the gun tip, the right distance from the surface, laying it on at the right speed, proper overlap, and more. Clear coat is very persnickety.

You might wonder why I bring this up as a point against single stage paint, because it sure sounds like a reason to use it. But do you remember what single stage paint is comprised of? Yes, base color with the clear coat mixed right in.

That means that each and every problem I just described regarding clear coat will be a problem you’ll have using single stage paint. It’s NOT beginner-friendly, and you can end up creating a real mess if your shoot goes wrong.


By now you can probably guess that I don’t recommend using single stage paint for the majority of applications. But if you’re really into painting, and have the patience to learn how to perfect the process, single stage paint can be your friend.

As I mentioned before, there are those who can apply single stage paint and achieve spectacular results when doing all of the required finish work. If you’re wanting to do a repair on a newer vehicle that you might resell in the future, get a professional body shop to apply a 2-stage paint job. But if you’re feeling froggy and want a challenge, single stage paint can work if you pay close attention to detail and apply it properly.

I highly recommend using a quality single stage paint from a trusted manufacturer. Hit the links below to view and purchase paints from the manufacturers that I have used in the past via Amazon, and in doing so, you’ll help to support the Carltonzone “Body Shop Tips” mini blog where you’ll be able to ask questions and get advice from the pros!

Carlton Flowers
Color Boss Custom Auto Body Shop

Molecular Polymer Sealant Treatment - Why It Is A Great Investment

How CBX3 Molecular Polymer Sealant Can Protect Your Investment

I’m sure you’ve heard about having your car’s paint job “sealed”, but by the time you finish reading this article, I’ll leave no question in your mind that would cause you to hesitate having this done right away.

The clear coat of your vehicle’s paint, when viewed under a microscope, has an irregular surface. Some say that it is porous, but this is incorrect. It’s a bit more complicated. The irregularities are on the surface, and also throughout the thickness of the clear coat.

Water can absorb into the clear coat through the irregularities, and make its way down to the base of the layer. There are fillers in base coat paints that will absorb water into it, which will make the degradation even worse.

When the sun shines on metal surfaces, it heats up fairly quickly. The heating up of the clear coat layer makes it more susceptible to water absorption through the irregularities. That’s when the process of oxidation starts.

Oxidation happens when heat and oxygen combine to which breaks down the molecular structure of the clear coat. It starts on the surface, creating a dull or chalky look. Then works its way through the base coat and down to the metal. The end result is rust.

Oxidation is why you see those cars with big cloudy dull spots that lead into peeling and chipping of entire areas. It happens the most on the top flat surfaces of vehicles. That’s where they get the most sun exposure, and where water sits for the longest period of time.

I have worked with chemists and formulators within the OEM paint manufacturing industry and the automotive industry during my time as an air pollution engineer for my state’s regulatory agency, in addition to collaborating with the EPA. I’ve seen a lot of research and advancement when it comes to making paint coatings more protective of the metal surfaces they are sprayed on. But they are still not 100% waterproof when exposed to the harsh outdoor environment over a long period of time.

Polymer Chain Structure

Polymer Chain Structure

The key to slowing down water absorption is to seal the surface with a molecular polymer sealant that is “hydrophobic”. That means water droplets are “scared” of sticking to it, rather than sticking to the surface where it can eventually be absorbed, it beads up and rolls off of the vehicle. There have been major advancements in the development of molecular polymer sealants for automotive use in the past decade.

You can guard against the destructive effects of oxidation by treating the surface with a polymer sealant that doesn’t allow the water to hang around long enough to start eating away the layers. And the side benefit is that your car will stay cleaner longer, because dirt and mud from rain and road splatter can’t stick to the surface as well. You’ll notice this every time it rains!

But the protection against water and oxidative damage isn’t all you get with my MPS treatment. You also get a brilliant shine, because this special formulation contains silicones and other imported wax ingredients that combine to create a brilliant, high-gloss finish!

CBX3 is a specially formulated product and application process that gives the ultimate protection in creating a hydrophobic barrier for your car, plus the aesthetic benefit of a show-room shine. You can’t go wrong with a process like this that is provided by a professionally-licensed auto body shop, and the treatment will last from 6 months to a year.

Pricing starts at $150 for the basic service, depending on the size and condition of your vehicle’s paint coating. But don’t hesitate to ask about scratch removal, headlight restoration, and synthetic polymer sealant window treatment too!

Carlton Flowers
The Color Boss

CBX 3 MPS System

CBX 3 MPS System

DIY Pro Tip - Single Stage Paint vs 2-Part Paint Explained

Pros and Cons of Single State Versus Traditional 2-Stage Coatings

single stage vs 2 stage.jpg

For the “do-it-yourself” garage painter, you’ve got options on the type of coatings you choose to paint your car or truck. Depending on what your end goal is, there are several things you can consider which will help you to make the decision on which way you go. I’ll describe what I’ve learned from my experience on using both types, and this can help you narrow down your decision.

To begin with, the difference between single stage paint and 2-part paint is exactly how it sounds. Single stage coatings are meant to be sprayed on after putting your vehicle in primer, and when you finish, you’re done. There’s no need to apply a clear coat layer, because the base coat was made with ingredients that give it a glossy finish.

2-part paints separate the color from the clear coat, giving the vehicle a glassy finish that is much more visible than single stage paint. The base coat is applied after the primer stage, and it has a dull, matte look. It gives uniform color coverage. A separate clear coat is applied at the last step, which gives a translucent layer that can be finished to a higher shine.

For starters and DIY’ers, let’s talk about the advantages of single stage paint. The first is the most obvious, and that’s saving a chunk of time for your overall paint job. You can apply 2 good coats of single stage paint, and you’re done. That means a lot less time waiting in between coats for the paint to flash, which is normally 15 to 25 minutes.

Cost wise, you’ll save a bundle of money by finishing with the color coat. Adding a clear coat might cost you between $100 and $200 more, and you must have the skill to be able to lay on the clear coat in a way that it is uniform, and free of dust to give a nice finish. If you don’t have a professional paint booth, you’ll end up doing quite a bit of finish work on the clear coat, which involves wet sanding, buffing, and polishing. That’s an entire skill in and of itself.

For the more experienced folks like me, the single stage route loses my interest for a handful of reasons…

First, it’s hard to shoot. The last time I did a single stage metallic black paint job, I noticed right off the bat that the paint does not flow out of the gun and atomize like standard 2-stage base colors. It was frustrating. Second thing I noticed, it runs super easy. The consistency is not the same. That’s because it has the clear coat components built into the paint, which is much more prone to run.

When I completed the single stage metallic black on my friend’s 1993 Ford Ranger, I wasn’t satisfied. There were small areas that a dull look, because I didn’t have the gun at the proper distance away from the surface, and it laid on dry. I think that happened after I experienced a few runs, which prompted me to back off the surface a bit.

Single stage paint is very finicky. Shoot it too close, and you’ll run it. Shoot it too far back, and it lays on dry. You’ve got to have perfect control of the gun, and lay on the right amount of material to achieve a final gloss, avoid dry spots, and not run the paint. For me, it’s a waste of time, after considering how long it took me to wet sand out the runs in the first 2 coats and re-shoot those areas.

In comparison to 2-stage base colors, spraying single stage is really challenging. Spraying standard base colors to me is almost mindlessly simple and easy to control. You get better coverage, which means less variation in color plus a deep rich opaque covering. Spraying 2-stage paint means you’ve got to learn the skill of putting down the clear coat, but the trouble you go through with getting that single stage paint to end up looking glossy almost cancels out the advantage of it.

My recommendation is that beginners and DIY enthusiasts who want to maximize cost effectiveness and minimize the time needed to spray a car use single stage paints. But those of you who have a bit more skill, or have use of a paint booth, stick with the 2-stage paint and put on that protective layer of clear.

The last thing I would mention is durability and aesthetic longevity. The single stage paint is a great way to go if you’re not too concerned with look and you’re happy with a moderate shine. But you should consider the fact that the single stage finish coat is going to be directly exposed to sunlight and weathering, and it’s going to go dull in a short period of time. Spraying clear coat will extend the period of time that the car will keep that initial shine.

A bonus tip for the serious experimenters - if you’re totally dissatisfied with your dull single stage paint after you complete your home shop job, you can in fact shoot a clear coat over single stage paint and improve the shine. Just remember to properly prep the surface to ensure adhesion before you shoot the clear on.

What are your experiences with single stage and 2-stage paint? If you’ve got more pros and cons that you’d like to add or discuss along with mine, chime on in! Post your comments below and let’s talk about it!

Carlton Flowers
The Color Boss

UPDATE - Due to the high number of questions I have received about single stage paint, I have written a new article that focuses on that topic alone. Check it out here! —> What Is Single Stage Paint? Answers From The Body Shop Pro!

Looking for single stage paint for your auto project? Check out my recommended suppliers on Amazon.com and help support the Body Shop Tips page!

Why Toothpaste Won't Fix Scratches - and Other Paint Fix Fails

The Toothpaste Scratch Fix Myth & Two Other Bad Ideas

You've seen it a countless number of times on life-hack websites and YouTube videos... "fix the deep scratches in your car's bumper with toothpaste!" The question looms in your mind, "does it really work?"

Well folks, I'm here to fill you in from personal experience on the real truth about repairing those ugly scratches and gouges in your car's bumper or panels with a tube of toothpaste, a buffing cloth, and sheer determination. I'll also hit on two other "methods" that we've often seen circulating on the internet. So let's get started!

The Toothpaste Scratch Fix


This scratch fix method is probably the most popular and circulated of all the ideas because it only costs you a squeeze of your current tube of minty fresh Colgate. Can it work? Yes. Does it work in most situations? No.

What I found out the first time that I tried to fix deep scratches in my bumper with toothpaste was that Colgate won't fix the deep gouges in plastic. Nor does it magically replace paint that is missing from the bumper.

The only thing that Colgate (or any other fantastic brand recommended by the American Dental Association) can do for you is remove paint that has been laid on your bumper by another vehicle, or a painted pole when there is no further damage to the plastic bumper or your metal panel.

But unless you've got some seriously skilled hands, it's not going to look like it did before you had that minor fender bender. You'll see a dull remnant of where you applied that elbow grease to scrub off those marks.

If you don't mind an imperfect repair, this might work for you. But if you're driving a new car with some seriously ugly scratches on the fender, get your car to a body shop to have it repaired professionally where nobody will be able to tell that it was hit.

My advice? Leave toothpaste to teeth and the American Dental Association. Consult your licensed auto body shop for scratches on your car.

The Paint Touch-Up Kit


This method is worse than the toothpaste solution. You are guaranteed to be able to clearly see that you used a touch up brush if you try to paint that scratch on your own with the little kits they sell over the counter.

Why doesn't it work? Because it isn't spray-applied, where the paint is finely atomized. But what about the little spray cans? They can be slightly better, but will splatter, and will only work for large areas.

Besides the fact that the touch up bottle of paint isn't spray applied, it's not going to look good because it is a base coat color. Your car has a base coat, and a clear coat. Sometimes there can be three coats: base coat, pearl coat, and clear coat.

paint brush scratch repair

You can't paint on a 2-stage base/clear combination with a paint brush. You can actually buy your car's base color in a rattle can, along with a can of clear. But even the most skilled hands aren't going to be able to apply it in such a way that you won't notice the repair.

In fact, if you try this yourself and have no experience, you could end up making your car look worse than it did before it got scratched. How do I know this? Because I tried it years before I owned my first body shop. I tried to rattle can base and clear coat on my 1988 sky blue Cadillac that I ran underneath a shipyard chain in a closed parking lot, and I ended up with horrific tiger stripes running length-wise down my hood.

My recommendation on touch up brush kits? Don't ever, ever do it! It will be uglier than you can imagine, like a 5-year-old using finger paint to fix your car. Trust me on this one. If the scratch is deep enough for touch up paint, and can rust the metal, leave it up to a professional to have it repaired!

The "WD-40" & Flame Method


I shouldn't even post this one, for fear that someone will actually go out and try to do this. This quick-fix method claims that you can use WD-40 to hide and remove scratches from your car's paint by spray applying the product to the affected area, and then spraying a small flame to create a blow torch that "re-seals" the clear.

This method is an absolute hoax. The key word in the description is "hide". Rather than fixing the scratches, it's just concealing them with the oil in the product. The oil is shiny, and sprays on the surface like a clear coat. But after it dries or is washed off, you've got the same old scratches that you started with.

Blowing flames on your car to fix the paint is not just dangerous. Applying a high heat like that is actually damaging to your paint coating, and this part of the method actually has no benefit or positive effect. If you're a pyromaniac, you'll have a blast with this method. Plus your original scratches. Otherwise, my obvious recommendation is to avoid this one at all costs!

Cost of Professional Scratch Repairs

Now that we have exposed all of the crack-pot scratch fixing techniques that won't do you much good, we can move on the actual cost of having your ugly scrapes and bumps fixed the by someone who has the skill to make your car look like new, as done by a professional in a body shop that has the tools and equipment to do the job right!

There is a significant amount of prep time required to mask off the car to protect it from overspray getting on the panels that are not effected. This is required to have the most professional looking end result. That's why it costs quite a bit more for a body shop to perform a repair, but the end result is worth the time put into protecting the other paint surfaces, the windows, windshield, and tires.

The following examples are rough estimates, and each one can vary depending on the size of your car, the expense of the original paint, and the severity of the damage. Keep in mind that the focus of this guide is on light damage repair, not heavy collision damage. But this will give you a better idea of what you'll need to invest in order to properly restore your vehicle's paint, and the shine.

Light Scratches - $75 to $100

light scratch.jpg

A "light scratch" is damage that only goes through the top layer of your vehicle's clear coat. The clear coat on your paint job is actually paper-thin, but if the scratch doesn't reach down into your base coat, it can be wet sanded with 1200 to 1500 grit sanding paper and then buffed with a body shop orbital buffer and buffing compound.

The key is having the experience to know how much you can sand the clear and not remove too much material that takes the clear coat completely off, and then restoring the shine with the right buffing compound. Orbital buffers, when used improperly, can completely remove the clear coat and even strip base coat down to the metal if applied with too much force. It's possible to triple the cost of the repair if not done correctly. That's why it is best to have a skilled body technician perform this repair to save you time and money!

Deep Scratches - $150 to $250


When scratches go through the clear coat down into the base color, or even down to bare metal, the repair area has to be sanded a little more where the scratch is feathered out into the surrounding area. Next, base coat color is sprayed onto the area, blending it into the surrounding area. Finally, clear coat is applied over the entire panel to make a uniform shiny finish that doesn't show any signs of defect.

Some smaller body shops will apply clear coat only to the area where the base color has been sprayed, and blended into the rest of the panel. When the clear coat is not applied over the entire panel, a hazy ring is left surrounding the area that has been sprayed. Some people don't mind this, but it won't leave your vehicle looking like it did when it was new. The average cost of repairing the deep scratch ranges from $150 to $250 per panel, depending on how many panels the scratch runs through.

Deep Scratches With a Dent - $200 to $400

deep scratch with dent.jpg

When a deep scratch is accompanied by a dent from the contusion that caused the damage, the metal surface has to be re-shaped before the new base color can be blended in and the clear coat can be applied over the panel. This requires using special dent fixing equipment in order to work the metal surfaces, and in some instances, a small thin amount of body filler must be skimmed over the finished area and sanded flat before the paint is applied. Etching primer must be applied to bare metal surfaces before spray coatings can be applied to insure proper adhesion.

The deep scratch requires a bit more labor to correctly re-shape the metal in addition to prepping and masking the vehicle before the spray coatings are applied, hence the higher price. You have to watch out for amateur repair specialists who fill dents with body filler rather than re-shaping the metal. When body filler (like Bondo) is applied thicker than 1/8th of an inch, it will be prone to cracking, and can even break away from the metal surface over time. It's not fun wasting money to repair the same dent twice, so it pays to have it done the right way the first time!

Rust Repair - $150 to $750 (or more)

rust damage.jpg

The bad thing about rust is it only gets worse over time if you don't have it taken care of when you first discover it. Sometimes rust will be visible, and other times the only indication of rust forming is when your paint looks like it has a swollen lumpy raised spot. Rust can either be on the surface of the metal, or it can go completely through a panel.

If you discover rust damage in time, it only requires sanding down to bare metal in the area affected. But if rust is allowed to spread, it can eat straight through the metal like a cancer. Surface rust can be repaired at a cost similar to deep scratches, and is refinished in the same manner. But rust that goes completely through a panel requires the affected area to be cut out, and a new patch panel welded in.  In that case, replacing and refinishing an entire panel could cost less than welding in patch panels.

That's why it is very important to inspect your vehicle's surfaces to insure that you catch rust damage before the cost gets out of hand.

Damage to Plastic Bumper Covers - $150 to $600

gouged out bumper.JPG

Deep scratches and gouges to bumper covers can get a little dicey. If the scratches are shallow enough, it might only require sanding, application of primer and a special adhesion promoter, and spraying of the paint coatings. As with regular panel repairs, the clear coat must be applied to the entire bumper panel in order to restore the original shine without a trace of the blended repair.

If a bumper is damaged extensively, or if there is cracking in the plastic, there are two different ways it can be repaired. Cracks can be "welded" back together with a special tool that fuses the fissure back together with staples, but this can increase the overall cost of the repair if it is bad enough. The alternative is replacing the entire bumper cover and applying the base color and clear to match the vehicle's color.

The challenging thing about bumpers is adhesion. Paints don't like to stick to plastic. A special primer and an adhesive promoter have to be sprayed on the bumper to insure the new paint won't peel and flake off. You've probably seen several instances of flaking on bumpers that have been repaired, and this can even happen when bumpers are painted at professional body shops. That's why extreme care must be taken when refinishing plastic surfaces.


The amount of money you spend on refinishing damage done to your vehicle's paint depends on the newness of your car, the cost of the type of original paint color, and whether or not you want it to look like it did when it was new. For newer cars, it is best to have scratches and dents repaired professionally, because you want to protect the value of your investment. But for older cars, your level of comfort with a less expensive repair might be different.

If you have questions about how much it will cost to have your mishaps refinished, send a picture of the damage to your car to carlton.flowers@gmail.com and I'll be glad to give you an eyeball estimate of what it will take to restore it to its original glory!

Carlton Flowers
The Airgun Artist

Wanna know what brands the pros use to detail their own cars? Check out these recommended products available on Amazon.com. These are some of the exact same products you’ll find on the shelf in my body shop, so you can trust that they work. Hit the links and help support the Body Shop Tips blog when you purchase!